My guidebook: Tower of London
A palace.
A prison.
A zoo.
A royal mint.
A place for royal jewels.
A home for Tower ravens.
A castle in the middle of a bustling city, with its own village-like community of residents (all the mod cons — the pub, the green, and an execution space — are present).
The Tower of London, with its almost thousand-year history, is usually introduced through a long, ever-evolving list of roles. Some of them it has already outlived, but they still linger in its corners and streets.
The best way to build a first impression
Free guided tour
Join a Yeoman Warder–led guided tour, included in the admission price (several slots per day, outdoors; tours can be cancelled due to severe heat or heavy rain, so check the forecast).
Yeoman Warders, or Beefeaters, are the ceremonial guards of the Tower, each with at least 22 years of military service. Preparing their guided tour, or “the Story”, takes several months and is a vital step in their new role.
These ladies and gentlemen are very knowledgeable and, like many people of their background, practically minded, with a strong presence and a specific sense of humour. More importantly, for them and their families, the Tower is home.
Quick or slow
Have a day to spend at the Tower? Go for it.
Less than a couple of hours? Still go for it (perhaps with a plan).
You can spend days at the Tower (no jokes about imprisonment intended) and still find something new.
Watching Poppy the raven singing from the gates, eating a hot dog on a bench, observing Tower Bridge being lifted from the embattlements, having tea and scones at the café, feeling warm sunlight on your face while coming across a mysterious military ceremony — none of this is necessarily in the guidebook, but all of it can be enjoyable.
There are, of course, many curated events and displays.
In winter, wear warm layers: it can be colder and windier than expected.
Show some love to volunteers
On the grounds of the Tower, if you see someone wearing a pink hi-vis tabard, say hello and feel free to ask questions. These are Tower volunteers. Some have years of experience; rain or shine, they are observant and very knowledgeable.
They can help with practical matters — toilets, drinking water fountains, lunch spots, the day’s schedule — but the most interesting interactions often start with unexpected questions.
As one of these volunteers, I was asked how to find otters in London and rent a bicycle to ride there from the Tower; for my opinion on Diana; where to see a ghost (any); what was going on with the Tower trees; and where to find information about a great-great-… grandfather who had been imprisoned in the Tower.
Ticketed admission.
Donations welcome.